In San José, Calles (streets) run north and south and Avenidas (avenues) run east and west. They ascend in odd numbers north of Avenida Central, and in even numbers south of it. Street addresses are rarely used. General addresses are the norm (such as: Avenida 1, Calles 6/8, which means the address is on Avenida 1 between Calles 6 and 8).

Centro Nacional de Arte y Cultura (National Arts Center): Calle 13 between Avenidas 3 and 5 506/257-9370 Museum hours: Tues-Sun 10-5 Admission charged. Houses the offices of the Cultural Ministry, several performing arts centers, and the Museum of Contemporary Art and Design. The latter has featured several impressive traveling international exhibits, including large retrospectives by Mexican painter José Cuevas and Ecuadoran painter Oswaldo Guayasamin.

Galería Nacional de Arte Contemporáneo Calle 15 and Ave. 3 506/257-7202 Closed Sundays Admisison charged. In the basement of the Biblioteca Nacional, the city's main library. It displays many fine works of contemporary artists.

Lankester Gardens: Paraíso de Cartago 506/552-3151 Daily 8:30-3:30 Closed on all national holidays Admission charged. There are more than 1,200 varieties of orchids in Costa Rica, and no fewer than 800 species are on display at this botanical garden in Cartago province. Created in the 1940s by English naturalist Charles Lankester, the gardens are now administered by the University of Costa Rica. There's an information center, and the trails are well tended and well marked.

Museo Nacional de Ciencias Naturales "La Salle": Across from the southwest corner of Parque La Sabana 506/232-1306 Mon-Sat 8-4, Sun 9-4 Admission charged. This natural-history museum offers information and specimens of the animals encountered in the jungles of the country. There are stuffed and mounted anteaters, monkeys, tapirs, and many others from Costa Rica and from around the world as well. There are also 1,200 birds, 12,500 insects, and 13,500 seashells displayed.

Museo Nacional de Costa Rica: Calle 17 between Avenida Central and Avenida 2, on the Plaza de la Democracia 506/257-1433 Tues-Sun 9-4:30 Closed Dec 25 and 31 Admission charged. Costa Rica's most important historical museum is housed in a former army barracks in the castle-like ocher colored Bellavista Fortress that was the scene of fighting during the civil war of 1948. There are hundreds of bullet holes on the turrets at the corners of the building. Inside this traditional Spanish-style building, are displays tracing Costa Rican history and culture from pre-Columbian times to the present. In the pre-Columbian room, there are exquisite 2,500-year-old jade carvings. Downstairs is a spectacular insect collection sponsored the National Institute of Biodiversity.

Museo Nacional de Ferrocarril (National Railroad Museum) Avenida 3,Calle 19 506/221-0777 Tues.-Sun. 9-4:30 (call first, as these hours vary) Admission charged. The museum is housed in the ornate Atlantic train station built in 1907 on the northeast corner of the Parque Nacional. Assorted memorabilia and photographs recount the century of operation of the "Jungle Train" which was discontinued following the April, 1991 earthquake.

Museo de Arte Costarricense: Parque La Sabana Este (Calle 42 and Paseo Colón) 506/222-7155 Tues-Sun 10-4 Admission charged. www.cr/arte/museos.html This small museum at the end of Paseo Colón in Parque La Sabana was formerly an airport terminal. Today, however, it houses a collection of works in all media by Costa Rica's most celebrated artists. On display are some exceptionally beautiful pieces in a wide range of artistic styles, demonstrating how Costa Rican artists have interpreted and imitated the major European artistic movements over the years.

Museo de Los Niños (Children's Museum): Calle 4 and Avenida 9 506/233-2734 Tues-Fri 8-4, Sat-Sun 10-5 Admission charged. This museum is located a few blocks north of downtown, on Calle 4. Many of the exhibits encourage hands-on play. Topics range from astronomy to communications. This museum sometimes features limited shows of "serious" art, and is also the home of the new National Auditorium.

Museo de Oro Banco Central (Gold Museum): Calle 5 between Avenida Central and Avenida 2, underneath the Plaza de la Cultura 506/223-0528 Tues-Sun 10-4:30 Admission charged. Located directly beneath the Plaza de la Cultura, this unusual underground museum houses one of the largest collections of pre-Columbian gold in the Americas. On display are more than 20,000 troy ounces of gold in more than 2,000 objects. The sheer number of small pieces can be overwhelming and seem redundant; however, the unusual display cases and complex lighting systems show off every piece to its utmost.

Parque Zoológico Simón Bolívar Avenida 11 and Calle 7, in Barrio Amón 506/223-1790 Daily 9-4:30 Admission charged. This zoo has received some much needed renovation in recent years. It is geared toward locals and school groups, with a small collection that includes Asian, African, and Costa Rican animals housed in cages rather than in natural habitats. There is a new children's discovery area, snake-and-reptile house, and gift shop.

Plaza de la Democracia San José's largest square, 400 yards east of the Plaza de la Cultura. It was laid out in 1989 for the Hemispheric Summit. It is the site of a market offering homespun crafts and Guatemalan textiles.

Serpentario Avenida 1 between Calles 9 and 11 506/255-4210 Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat-Sun 10-5 Admission charged. Live snakes, lizards, and frogs are kept in beautiful large terrariums that simulate their natural environments. Poisonous snakes make up a large part of the collection. Also, brilliantly colored poison arrow frogs, iguanas and fer- de- lance are represented here.

Mercado Central Avenida Central, Calles 6/8 Open Mon-Sat. Closed Sunday. This centrally situated market was opened in 1880 and is still thriving! Crowds press together, working their way through the narrow alleyways to see the many offerings displayed in the stalls of the market. Cobblers, saddle shops, woodworkers, butchers, florists, crafts people, fruit sellers, fishmongers, vendors yelling for the attention of customers, are all there. Keep your money safely concealed and enjoy the experience of an authentic market experience.

Fidel Tristán Museo de Jade 11th floor of INS building, Avenida. 7 between Cs. 9 and 11 506/223-5800 ext. 2584 8:30-4:30 daily. Closed weekends. Admission charged. www.cr/arte/museos.html Nearly all the items at the Jade Museum, the world's largest collection of American jade, were produced in pre-Columbian times, and most of the jade dates from between 300 BC to AD 700, before the indigenous artisans learned goldsmithing. More pre-Columbian artifacts, such as polychrome vases and three-legged metates (low tables for grinding corn), and an array of ceramic fertility symbols round out the collection.

Outside San José:

Side trip to Heredia (seven miles northeast of San José):

Café Britt Farm Carretera 126, 1.25 miles northwest of Heredia on the road to Barva(telephone for directions) 506/261-0444 Three tours daily: 9, 11, and 3. Tours Nov-Feb during the harvest season; store open daily 8:30-5 year-round Admission charged. www.coffeetour.co.cr Café Britt is one of the leading brands of coffee in Costa Rica, and the company offers an interesting tour and stage production at its farm, which is 20 minutes outside of San José. Visitors are taken on tours to see how coffee is grown, they visit the roasting plant, and can participate in tasting to experience the different qualities of coffee.

Braulio Carrillo National Park Highway 32, 14 miles northeast of San José 290-1937 or 283-5906 Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo is a 108,970 acre forest that protects a massive watershed on the winward side of Cordillera Central. This is a tract of pristine wilderness spanning five life zones.

Aerial Tram at the Park 257-5961 Discover the natural wonders of the forest canopy as you glide through the jungle canopy on the Aerial Tram, a silent creation that allows you to obtain a bird's eye view of the rain forest while accompanied by a naturalist guide. The tour begins with a hike on a diverse trail where you will learn characteristics of the ecosystem.The ride lasts for 90 minutes on the open air tram.

Side trip to Alajuela (one mile north of the Juan Santamaría Airport and 13 miles northwest of San José):

Poás Volcano 23 mile drive from Alajuela goes winding ever upward on a mountain road. 482-4165 or 233-5284 Admission charged. A scenic drive through coffee and sugar plantations will take you up to the top of this spectacular volcano. Take a close up look from the observation terrace at the enormous crater with its deep green lake. On a clear day you can see both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The visitor center shows a model of the volcano and explains the process at work. The main crater bubbles and belches forth steam on a regular basis; two others are extinct.

Butterfly Farm: 13 miles northwest of San José In front of Los Reyes Country Club 506/438-0400 Daily 9-5 Admission charged. 80 different species of butterflies are raised at this butterfly farm south of Alajuela. The admission includes a 2-hour guided tour. In the demonstration room there are exhibits of butterfly eggs, caterpillars, and pupae. The butterflies live in a large enclosed garden similar to an aviary.

Zoo Ave La Garita, Alajuela 506/433-8989 Daily 9-5 Admission charged. Scarlet macaws, owls, raptors, several different species of toucans, and a host of brilliantly colored birds from Costa Rica and around the world make this one exciting place to visit. There are also large iguana, deer, and monkey exhibits and a 12-foot-long crocodile. Zoo Ave. houses only injured, donated, or confiscated animals.

Side Trips and Tours to other areas near San José:

Manuel Antonio National Park Located two hours from San José, Manuel Antonio National Park is considered to be Costa Rica's most beautiful park, with enchanting white sand beaches ideal for swimming and a tropical forest with abundant wildlife. Either relax in the tropical splendor, or explore the park's trails leading to scenic lookouts. A visit to the nearby town of Quepos for a "tipico" lunch finishes off a perfect day. (Guided tours available)

Carara Biological Reserve Highway 34, 14 miles south of Orotina (one hour drive from San José) 383-9953 Located in the foothills of the Talamancas Mountains, this important reserve lies at the meeting point of the rainforest and dry forest; of the wet and dry climatic zones. Carara is a Huetar native American name meaning "crocodile." The reserve protects the last major stand of transitional forest on the isthmus. Within its 11,613 acres, representative species from both eco systems abound, including the rare Scarlet Macaw, and a vast number of species of plants and trees. Walk through the trails of this transitional forest, a cross between a dry tropical forest and humid jungle. Appreciate the wonders of this intricate eco-system and it's importance to our planet.

Arts & Entertainment:

Dance: There are frequent dance performances and concerts in San José's Teatro Fanal and the Teatro 1887, both of which are inside the Centro Nacional De La Cultura C. 13 between Avdas. 3 and 5, San José, 257-5524 (tickets and info). San José's baroque Teatro Nacional Plaza de la Cultura, San José 221-1329 (tickets and info) Hosts performances from visiting musical groups and dance troupes, also performances by the excellent National Symphony Orchestra. The season runs from April to December, with concerts on Friday evening and Sunday morning.